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M/V MATUA & M/V TOFUA - GRAND LADIES OF THE PACIFIC

By Captain George P. Clarke
  In 1875 James Mills and a group of Dunedin merchants founded a shipping line that would last 125 years. This company was the Union Steamship Company of NZ Ltd. which became the largest employer in New Zealand other than government. It controlled the majority of shipping services around the New Zealand coast and Australia, and also had regular sailings to India, the West Coast of North America and islands in the Pacific.

In April 1889, the steam vessel, Mawhera sailed from Auckland inaugurating an Auckland, Tonga and Samoa service. Since then the company had many ships trading to the islands but the two classic vessels which were dear to the hearts of many island travellers and traders were the Matua and Tofua. Both vessels were designed and built for the Pacific Island trade and were fully insulated for the carriage of bananas, the main export from the islands to New Zealand.

MATUA
A twin screw motor ship of 4240 grt. Matua was built in 1936 at Newcastle on Tyne in England for the trade, mainly from Auckland to Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa and during her early days to Rarotonga and Aitutaki were in her schedule. Lyttleton and Wellington were visited from time to time. And an occasional voyage was made to Sydney.

When she entered service, the Matua was painted white with a green band which gave her a yacht like appearance. During the war she was painted grey, then white again, before eventually assuming the green colours to her hull which was known to all.

She had accommodation for 64 passengers and carried some 100 deck passengers on the voyages between Fiji, Samoa, Tonga.

Apart from a few mishaps and the effects of cyclones, Matua was a very successful vessel and served the Union Company for 32 years. On her maiden voyage she touched a reef at Aitutaki, damaging a propeller. The following year she struck a buoy while negotiating the southern entrance to Nuku'alofa when again she damaged a propeller. In 1957 she grounded on Duff Reef 10 miles east of Wailangilala in the Fiji Group and was towed off undamaged by the American destroyer "James E. Keys".

Matua was eventually sold in 1968 to buyers from the Philippines and renamed
   

MV Matua built in 1936 for trade mainly from Auckland to Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa and during her early days to Rarotonga and Aitutaki were in her schedule. (Photo: Captain George Clarke).

3rd officer on Matua checking the vessels compass error by amplitude of the sun, MV Tofua at Pagopago, American Samoa and anchorage at Alofi, Niue. (Photo: Captain George Clarke)

MV Tofua at Vavau, Tonga; both vessels were designed and built for the Pacific Islands trade and were fully insulated for the carriage of bananas. (Photo: Captain George Clarke)

  "Sultan K L" The Port of Auckland was ablaze from all the ships in port blowing their whistle as the Matua sailed out for the last time. A year later she ran aground in Manila Bay during a typhoon and was salvaged by Taiwan ship breakers and was broken up at Kaohsiung in 1970.

TOFUA
The last passenger and cargo vessel also designed and built for the trade was the 5299 grt. twin screw motor vessel "Tofua". She was built at Dumbarton, Scotland in 1951and made her maiden voyage from Auckland to Suva, Lautoka, Suva, Nuku'alofa, Vavau, Pago Pago, Apia, and Suva on 21 December 1951 under the command of Captain N.H. Pearson. Alofi in Niue was included in her ports of call shortly after her maiden voyage.

The Tofua had accommodation for 73 passengers with allowance for 200 deck passengers. In December 1952 she carried a record 32,269 cases of bananas to Auckland. After 22 years service to the Union Company, she was sold in 1973 to Hong Kong interests and renamed Tack Tai. In 1975 she was again sold but this time to Chinese ship breakers for demolition at Shanghai.

The Union Company did not replace these vessels and it was an end of an era in Pacific shipping due to the jet age and modern technology in cargo handling and containerisation.

The Matua and Tofua were very popular ships for island travellers going to NZ or returning home which was a big contrast from present day travel. A passenger from the islands to Auckland had to wait for many months before getting a passage and then spend over a week onboard before arriving NZ.

As for the deck passengers, the discomfort of being housed on the deck under tents while at sea and having to bring their own bedding and food for the time in days and not hours for the voyage between the islands. Somehow they were content with the conditions and were always a joyous atmosphere amongst the Samoans, Niueans and Tongans all crammed together on deck.

These ships were also a source of income for many island boys working as, able bodied seamen, motormen, stewards or galley hands. They were also very popular with the crews, particularly Auckland men, because of the regular run and the time spent in Auckland during discharge and reloading.

As for myself, I was a deck officer in charge of a navigation watch on the bridge as per my rank while at sea. I was 3rd Officer on the Matua during 1963 / 1964 and 2nd Officer mid 1965 for a couple of months before being promoted to chief officer on a collier trading between Greymouth and Whangerei.

My next visit to the islands was on the Tofua as chief officer in 1967 and I was able to observe the slow decline of the banana export market from Samoa due to the disease known as bungee top that was affecting the plantations.

The following incidents happened during my time on these two vessels which show how important they were to the people of Samoa, Niue, Tonga and Fiji.

The first was an important occasion and was either just before Christmas 1963 or Independence Day when Apia was quickly running short of beer. The only beer in town was the American chemical, Millers Ale which to most beer drinkers was coloured water and it did not give the desired effect of the real stuff from Europe. The Tofua had left Suva before the transhipped consignment of this important commodity arriving from Europe. The Matua was a fortnight behind and her ETA at Apia was a couple of days before this important day.

There were frantic requests from Apia to the Master and Chief Officer to ensure in top stowing the beer crates for immediate discharge on arrival. The beer was discharged off the vessel into lighters even before the passengers could disembark.

These were the days before the new wharf where vessels had to moor out in the stream using two anchors and the stern tied to buoys. The sight of the Matua in Apia Harbour to some was like the saviour had finally arrived. The Master, Capt. F. Bales was treated like a hero and would have no problems getting himself a matai title if he had wanted one.

The second occasion was in 1967, the coronation year for King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV of Tonga. The Tofua was the last ship into Nuku'alofa from Auckland before the coronation so it was very important that all cargoes for this special event must be onboard at sailing time.

During loading operations, the vessel was informed of four very big white pigs in a crate each for Nuku'alofa. The only area reserved for the carriage of livestock was on the fore deck. The Master, Capt. P. Bennett rejected the pigs immediately for he was aware of the 200 deck passengers mainly for the coronation boarding at Suva. Also at Suva, we were committed to take onboard for Niue on behalf of the Department of the Island Territories, at least twenty calves and goats.

Some hours later, an urgent message from the Union Company's head office at Wellington was received by the Master, instructing him of the importance to load the pigs for they were a gift from the New Zealand Government for the King's coronation. The pigs did make the full trip and was not a pleasant trip for the 200 deck passengers housed on the after deck especially if there was a head wind.

Being the Chief Officer, it was my responsibility to ease the burden these pigs will have not only to the deck passengers but all personal onboard. I had arranged with the Bosun for the crew to give the animals and the surrounding area a good wash down at least 4 times a day while at sea and in port to land them on the quayside for a wash down by the stevedores if permitted by the authorities.

There were no problems at Suva, Apia and Vavau landing the pigs on the quay but not so at Pago Pago where maybe they had to apply to Washington DC for permission. I am sure Chief Toleafoa (Kalolo) of Lepea who is still around will remember this royal gift for he was given the task of looking after them while we were in Apia.

At Apia there was always a social evening at the RSA Club when these two vessels were in port which were well attended by the local young ladies maybe looking for a Palagi husband. I am aware that some did succeed.

The Matua's good work was greatly appreciated by the Island's people who presented her with a handsome plaque in recognition of her work.

It was a sad day when Matua and Tofua were finally withdrawn after so many years of good service to the islands.
 
 
 

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